I haven’t posted in a while, again. However I have a bit more time and headspace and therefore decided it was time to add a new post.
So I went for a motivating topic : my friend and favourite jewellery designer, Zohra Rahman.
We met in Central Saint Martin’s while studying. I took an immediate dislike of her at first that then turned into a great fondness. So a while ago, when I did my “Perfect Blue Tamara” collection, I asked her if she could help out, and design pieces. Which she did and the pieces got a lot of attentiion, sometimes more than my own clothes. The accessories director from Hermès was particularly impressed.
Here’s in particular the ring she designed. I think it’s beautiful :
It’s a great design, basically she takes all these different metals, like copper, gold plated metal, silver, etc… And then she traps a jewel in the middle of all these layers. And then it is all riveted together. What’s really fitting with the collection is the fact it creates a lot of overlapping geometric shapes, angles, and almost layers of transparency and shine which was a central theme in my collection.
Also, Zohra’s been working mostl on women’s pieces before this, but she found just the right scale and width for these pieces. With the Tamara de Lempicka inspiration, the rings must be anything but discreet, and be rough and sharp.
You can see more of these pieces in the “Perfect Blue Tamara” collection section.
So this riveting technique was sort of developped as a signature, on following pieces. I think it is extremely successful and more developped on this necklace, a comission for a friend.
The lines are strong and sharp still, but the colours and curves, and the smaller stones make it somehow softer. Aren’t the colours beautiful? And the pearl chain, it’s a nice detail, one that I’d not seen before. The format of the pendant reminds me of the japanese inro, which were hanging from a kimono’s obi and used to carry valuables, money etc..
Altogether, what’s really remarkable is that she has a style. Bigger pieces, with angles, depth and an overall rawness in the finishing. For sure they’re not your daily pieces, but they carry a strong statement and intent, and maybe that’s also due to the fact they’re all comission pieces.
They sort of remind me of the sixties early seventies Dinh Van pieces which have a smiliar strong, uncompromising and slightly androgynous look to them(see Dinh’s square ring, 1966). I reckon that’s what makes them contemporary.
Here’s a few more examples and a photo of her (she’s the girl on the right).
If you feel like contacting her you can find her in my facebook friends, or I think she even has a tumblr page.
Actually it’s her website, right HERE.